Haenyeo, the mermaids of Jeju call to one another amongst the shallows. They laugh and joke as an elderly colleague staggers uphill with a hefty bag of molluscs on her back, not half as nimble as she is in the water. I pass on through an orchard of glowing tangerines and a shrilly bird warns me away as I begin another sweaty ascent of an oreum. A gentle drizzle descends from the heavens that for a time is somewhat soothing; until that drizzle turns to hard rain; and then that hard rain in turn begins to sweep horizontally across the island in a manner that could only be described as sheer bat shit crazy. Typhoon Kong-rey had arrived. It was time to take a break.
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